I'm currently working on the Dana-Spicer 24 Transfer Case out of my 68 F250 and I have couple quick questions.
1. When I removed my transfer case the speedometer cable did not want to come out of the metal drive gear so I removed the threaded bushing and left gear and bushing on the speedometer cable. I would think the speedometer drive wire would come out of the gear but it didn't so I didn't force it. Did anyone else have this issue? BTW the speedometer in the truck is working.
2. Does anyone know what the torque specification is for the yoke nuts? The shop many just says to torque to specification and does not list a value.
My case only needed seals as all the shafts have little to no radial or longitudinal play.
Thanks,
CStoyer
Spicer 24
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cstoyer
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Re: Spicer 24
Update:
I have disassembled my Dana-Spicer 24 and am now in the process of repainting and replacing seals. However, getting back to the torque issue for the yoke nuts I do have some information to share. I figured since the nuts are backed up with cotter keys to prevent them from backing off I couldn't image the torque value for these would be high. So what I did was I marked the cotter key location on the nut and then measured the distance from the end of the shaft to top of nut and recorded the value. The measurement was more of back up for the location since I had the marks to go by when the nut was tightened. Once I had this information I removed the nuts with a regular ratchet wrench and cleaned them and the shaft. After cleaning I used a "Clicker Style" torque wrench to install the nuts back to the original location referencing the marks I made. I did this by setting the torque higher each time I installed them until the cotter key marking and distance matched the original location before it was removed. I did this for all three yokes and the values averaged between 85~95 ft/lbs. Hope this helps someone in the future because there seems to be very little information on these older units.
CStoyer
I have disassembled my Dana-Spicer 24 and am now in the process of repainting and replacing seals. However, getting back to the torque issue for the yoke nuts I do have some information to share. I figured since the nuts are backed up with cotter keys to prevent them from backing off I couldn't image the torque value for these would be high. So what I did was I marked the cotter key location on the nut and then measured the distance from the end of the shaft to top of nut and recorded the value. The measurement was more of back up for the location since I had the marks to go by when the nut was tightened. Once I had this information I removed the nuts with a regular ratchet wrench and cleaned them and the shaft. After cleaning I used a "Clicker Style" torque wrench to install the nuts back to the original location referencing the marks I made. I did this by setting the torque higher each time I installed them until the cotter key marking and distance matched the original location before it was removed. I did this for all three yokes and the values averaged between 85~95 ft/lbs. Hope this helps someone in the future because there seems to be very little information on these older units.
CStoyer
68 F250 4x4