3 speed removal questions

[TexasTruck72]

Hi, haven't posted to this forum in quite a while, but thought it would be a good time to ask a few questions. I am in the process of acquiring another Ford 3 speed toploader transmission for my 1972 F-100 with 360 V8. The original 3 speed toploader has been working fine for 44 years until last week. I posted a comment about it on Fordication's facebook page, so if you're reading this and think my question is redundant, that is why. Anyway, I plan on getting another vintage Ford 3 speed and swapping it out with the original, so I can diagnose what went wrong with the original. My questions are:

1. Is changing out an (identical) transmission something that can be done by myself with out special tools? I assume by looking at it under the truck, that I will need to disconnect the driveshaft, remove the transmission support cross member, disconnect the linkage arms, disconnect the speedo cable, unbolt the transmission, and pull it out of the bell housing? What I am not familiar with is how the clutch and pressure plate is held in place. Will those parts 'fall' out and down into the access panel at the bottom of the bell housing? Do I need to remove the bell housing during the transmission swap?

2. What gear oil do your recommend using in a Ford 3 speed toploader?

3. Has anyone done this before without a lift, and if so, do you have any suggestions? I would like to try to attempt this myself, so I don't have to take it to a shop and pay lots of $ in labor.

I have been doing all the research I can on Ford 3 speed transmissions. I understand the difference between wide and close ratio gears, bolt patterns on the case, and the RAN/RAT markings on the ID tag. I feel pretty sure I can get another 3 speed almost identical to the one in my truck now.

FYI-The problem that has been occurring with my 3 speed lately is "free wheeling" while in 3rd gear around 35-45 mph. It drives fine up to that point and will randomly fall out of gear(the transmission, not the shifter) and into a 'neutral' position. It made a loud whining noise the other morning when it did this. Sometimes a series of metal clacking/clanking sounds are made too. It is unusual and I have never experienced these symptoms the past 7 years since I've owned this truck. It will reconnect back into gear while coasting down the road. The disconnect that is happening usually is brief, not lasting more than 30 seconds. But I don't want to take my chances and keep driving this truck and wound up getting stranded or broke down somewhere. Truck is at my house and I'd like to fix the problem myself if possible. When I say fix it, I mean at least reinstall another 3 speed that works in the mean time until I get into the original and find out what is wrong. Maybe have the original rebuilt when I have some money saved up at a later time. But I'd really like to keep the '72 roadworthy and driveable this fall/winter if possible. Any advice or suggestions greatly appreciated! Thank you.

[sargentrs]

Never pulled one mounted to a 360 but I've pulled the one mounted on to my 302 several times. You pretty much have the removal part right. Driveshaft, linkage, x/m bolts and bell housing. I had to pull my tranny out of the bell housing first, then remove the bell housing, due to the front x/m getting in the way. You will have to remove the bell housing from the engine to install the clutch and pressure plate. While you're at it, you should have your flywheel resurfaced and replace the bronze pilot bearing. Not sure if they have franchises in your area but I used these guys http://www.clutchman.com/ Took my flywheel with me to work and gave them a call. They came to my job, resurfaced my flywheel and sold me a clutch kit, right from their truck. Borrow a pilot bearing puller from your local parts store to save some hassle. The clutch disc and pressure plate mount to the flywheel with bolts so no big deal there. Your new clutch kit should come with a pilot tool. That's the critical part, the center of the clutch disc should be centered in the pilot bearing and the clutch disc should be centered in the pressure plate. If you have Harbor Freight in your area, one of these is worth the expense http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive ... 61232.html On my small block, IIRC, I had to install the bell housing first, then the transmission to the bell housing. The hardest part is stabbing the tranny back in, through the throw out bearing and engaging the spline on the output shaft through the clutch disc. A little wiggling/rotating is required and hard to do laying on your back with a tranny on your chest. Here's what I do to make that a little easier. Go to the local hardware store and buy some 5/16-18 all thread rod. If you can find it in 6" length so much the better. Grab 4 nuts while you're at it. Install your new clutch kit and bolt the bell housing to the engine. Install the new throwout bearing on the clutch fork. Be sure and grease it, if required, before installing. Install the bell housing. Screw the 2 all thread rods into the bottom transmission mounting holes on the bell housing. Lift the transmission and slide it over the all thread rods. Put a nut on the tail end to keep it from falling off. Now it'll support itself while you work the tranny into the bell housing, through the throw out bearing, through the clutch disc and into the pilot bearing. You'll have to wiggle the throw out bearing using the clutch fork, to make sure it slides over the output shaft. Mine was a Ford 3.03 transmission on a 302 small block. Your 360/3 spd may be a little different but they're all pretty much the same process.

[TexasTruck72]

Thank you Sargentrs! The good thing is that I just had my clutch replaced along with a new pressure plate, throw out bearing, and had the flywheel machined twice. My clutch was original to the truck and was way past replacing according to the guys I hired to replace it. I not sure if they replaced they replaced the pilot bearing or not.

I am on the fence about trying to swap it out myself. I may pay someone to do it or I'll think about doing it myself. Haven't made up my mind yet. But your reply was very useful, so thank you. Going to look at some Ford three speed transmissions today. I'll keep you updated.

[ThinLizzy13]

I did a clutch job on my 67 (352 w/4apd) earlier this summer. I had never removed a tranny before.

The hardest part was getting it back in (like sargentrs described). It was a lot of finangling and readjusting. I would highly recommended that tranny jack that he provided a link for. I swapped mine out with a floor jack. If you tackle the job yourself, make sure you support the back of the engine with something before taking out the trans.

Good luck!

[Nitekruizer]

If you're going as far as removing the flywheel for resurfacing, you may as well replace the ring gear too.

If you don't want to remove your bellhousing at all, you can just pull the transmission out of the bell and slide the new trans in. Just make sure that you don't depress the clutch pedal or bump/move the clutch fork while the transmission is out or your clutch disc will have to be realigned so that the input shaft of the new trans will go in.