Twin Stick, E-Brake Equipped Divorced NP205

[cstoyer]

Here is a little write up on the rebuild I did on my NP205 I sourced to replace the Dana 24 that originally came in my 68 F250 4x4. I had previously overhauled the 24 but when I happened across a 205 out of 73 that didn't cost an arm and leg I picked it up. You can still get all of the parts for the 205 as you know and some really nice add options I will show.

This is what the 205 looked like when I got it home. Not in bad shape and shifted through all the gears without any issues but the seals were all shot.

Original NP205 Condition.jpg

Removed the front gear set cover. The shaft and bearing looked really nice and was surprised by the condition of the gears. No chips or rust.

Checking the gears.jpg

Removed the Rear Output Housing and Yoke. Again the shaft and bearings looked good

Output Shaft Inspection.jpg

More to follow
cstoyer

[cstoyer]

Next was a full tear down of the case since it was good candidate for an overhaul. Everything was laid out as it came out of the case. Just in case my rebuild instructions are a little hard to follow.

Dissasembled Case 1.jpg

Once it was apart I cleaned and primed and painted the case. This one needed a lot of cleaning to get years of oil and dirt off.

Painted Case Front.jpg

Painted Case Rear.jpg

One thing I didn't photograph was the idler gear install. This received new tapered Timken bearings, but one thing to keep in mind when you buy a rebuild kit is they do not come with the shims to set the idler play. I picked those up up from McMaster Carr. Set it at 0 to .0005 play when torqued to 120ftlbs.

cstoyer

[cstoyer]

With the idler gear set I proceeded with the rest of the rebuild. BTW I got everything for the rebuild and twin stick conversion from JB Custom Fabrication. John is a really good guy to work with and made sure everything I was trying to do would work before I spent a dime. He even reviewed the E-Brake set up to make sure it would clear the cable shift.

Case on the bench with the Idler installed.

Case Ready For Assembly.jpg

Front gear set in place and rear input gear with shift fork installed. All new bearings went into the case for the rebuild.

Partial Assembly 1.jpg

Front gear set rear cover installed. Make sure you use sealant on the gaskets and bolts and torque to 30ftlbs

Partial Assembly.jpg

cstoyer

[cstoyer]

This picture shows the new shift rails with adjustable pre-load ball springs. You can set how much retention you want on the rails with these.

Adjustable Detent Springs.jpg

Rear output housing and gears before going back into the case.

Output Gear Cluster 1.jpg

One of the joys of these cases is the loose needle bearings inside the shafts. Some say use petroleum jelly to hold them in place for assembly but I have used engine assembly grease with out any issues.

Output Gear Cluster.jpg

cstoyer

[cstoyer]

Here is a picture of the front of the case after assembly without the E-Brake. Note all the yokes and flange have a rubber seal under the nut and washer and are torqued to 120ftlbs. The front output is a double cardan flange for a 1350 u-joint set up. Since I have a 79 D60 High Pinion Sno Fighter Front Axle for this truck to replace the D44 HD Closed Knuckle I needed the flange. All the yokes and flange came form Tom Woods Custom Drive Shaft. he will also make the the new shafts for this truck.

Front of Case.jpg

Here is a shot of the shift cable attachments and Flange.

Double Cardan Flange.jpg

Picture of the input yoke again 1350.

Input 1350 Yoke.jpg

cstoyer

[cstoyer]

With the case done I could add the cable output yoke E-Brake. I know some may ask why wouldn't you just use the original set-up. Well since I was swapping out the front axle for an updated one with disk brakes why not do the rear. So the original rear axle is going to be replaced with a 10.25 Sterling with a Disk Brake Conversion from TSM. I could have got the Eldorodo brakes with a parking brake but I here they have problems so I went this way and sourced them from TSM as well.

E-Brake from the back of the case.

Rear of Case.jpg

E-Brake Assembly Close Up

E-Brake Rotor and Caliper.jpg

Top of the E-Brake

E-Brake.jpg

This will be enough for it to pass PA Inspection

cstoyer

[cstoyer]

When I get to install this in the truck the shift assembly looks like this and will be mounted into the removable tunnel cover with a flush mount kit. The pivot point will be flush with the tunnel cover and covered with individual stick boots. JB Custom Fabrication supplies everything you need to make this happen. Can't say enough about this shop.

Twin Stick.jpg

These are the shift knobs for the twin stick. I also got the matching one for the transmission.

Front Shifter.jpg

Rear Shifter.jpg

If anyone wants any specifics let me know. I know this was a brief overview but there any many rebuild threads out there on the 205 but I thought I would show mine.

Thanks,
cstoyer

[basketcase0302]

Really nice write up, thanks for sharing it. I plan for this to be in my near future as I've found a 205 /C-6 that I'm probably not gonna pass up.
And I love the E-brake set up, do you foresee clearance issues with the cab? Does the bracketry on the E-brake wind up on top, (hard to tell in the image).
Can't believe they'd still make you get inspection on the bump up there?

[cstoyer]

Jeff

Thank you.

The center line of the output shaft is below the frame rail and the disk and yoke will be behind the cab so there will not be any interference issues with caliper and disk itself. However the e-brake cable stay from the TSM kit will need to be modified slightly as I will need to bend it to make sure it directs the cable toward the front of the truck. This will rout it either through the valley area of the t-case (between the mounting brackets where the twin stick cables go) or between the cab floor and cross member. I just haven't decided which way yet but It shouldn't be to difficult. Now one thing I will mention is if you choose not to do the twin stick you can rotate the caliper mounting bracket so that kit supplied bracket stay will direct the cable along the same direction as the speedometer cable toward the drivers side frame rail.

Here some pictures where I test fit the caliper on the case before I overhauled it so maybe you can see what your looking for.

Caliper mount and cable stay in the position for the cable driven twin stick.

IMG_4818 (600 x 450).jpg

As you can see it directs the cable toward the underside of the bed and cab so I will need to bend it so it directs the cable forward. I may need an additional guide for the cable but I'll see once its on the frame.

Caliper mount in the position without a cable driven twin stick. This position sends the cable toward the drivers side frame rail where it could bend and go along the frame to the front of the cab.

IMG_4820 (600 x 450).jpg

PA Inspection still takes place on these trucks. However the vehicle does not need to be emissions tested.

cstoyer

[basketcase0302]

Got it-on the location of the caliper.
Also kudos to you on the decision of the 1410/ I had to take, (1/2 ton) yes 1/2 ton driveline (one shaft and u-joints) out and one 1350 series shaft and u-joints out and replace with 1410 when I built BC #16. Yeah...let's put 1/2 ton driveline in a truck that hauls cars on it flat bed with a trailer behind it with a car on that...

Am I seeing it correctly that the e-brake is using your existing e-brake cable?
I cherish my D-24 that I owned for over 25 years, (my 76' EB) but a 205 is the bulletproof TC we all want.

[cstoyer]

Jeff

That is the stock speedometer cable in the pictures as I was just making sure I had clearance for it when the bracket was mounted. I'll do a another write up later on how I'll get the mechanical speedometer drive to work with our 67-72 cluster and a divorced NP-205. You cant buy a cable for a D24 anywhere that I know of so I was not about to hack my original good working cable up Never know may need that rebuilt D24 and cable for another truck.

cstoyer

[basketcase0302]

It's been almost 30 years since I first bought my 76' early Bronco that had the D-24 in it.
Would a cable from one of them possibly work?
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1966-1 ... o/17130XL/

My 205 / C-6 source fell through yesterday as I wanted to finally go check it out today (still recovering from surgery-couldn't lift it anyway). He sold it to someone else-so I'm back to searching here locally again.

[cstoyer]

Jeff

Sorry to hear about the deal on the trans an t case. Best wishes on the recovery.

The cable that was on my D-24 was 104" long from t-case gear to cluster conection. The one you are showing is only 81" long and is one I looked at but didn't think it would reach even with a different routing from stock.

cstoyer