Along with all the other stuff I wasted my money on yesterday, I picked up an NP203 case from a Ford. It's a divorced unit, has the 2.00:1 ratio, according to the tag. I know that using the front portion is a popular way to get lower gearing, but can it be made to bolt up to a D21? I'd like to keep the D21 case, since it's in good shape and is a fairly stout unit, but I can't live without low range. Even my Subaru has a low range (gonna have a second 4.0:1 low range soon).
I know anything is possible with a torch and welder, and I do tend to follow that theory, but figure I'd just see if anybody has any input before I go throwing money at stuff.
Idea in progress- good or bad
Moderator: Doug Comer
- xxxtina63
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re: Idea in progress- good or bad
I've never seen a NP203/D21 before, but that's not to say it can't be done. One option you have is to convert the NP203 to part time. A lot of places have an inexpensive conversion kit, but the best route is to use what I think is called a "shaft replacement" kit. This removes the full time feature and makes it like a part time t-case, kind of like the NP208. Supposedly, an added feature is that you can run in low range while in 2WD.
Robert
My FORDification Photo Album
My FORDification Photo Album
I'm thoroughly modifying an S code intake, drilling and welding in inserts, hogging out the top to two holes instead of four, running a megasquirt controller, and a DUI self-contained ignition system.
I'm trying to avoid the divorced route, I want to keep the carrier bearing where it's at because of the rear suspension system design. I really just need a holdover for the time being, eventually once I can afford it I am throwing in a Stak monster box 3-speed.
I'm trying to avoid the divorced route, I want to keep the carrier bearing where it's at because of the rear suspension system design. I really just need a holdover for the time being, eventually once I can afford it I am throwing in a Stak monster box 3-speed.
- averagef250
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I'm putting a Samauri t-case under it in the late summer, after I move. I am doing it a different way, making a new front crossmember to add the front diff with only 5" of lift, instead of the usual minimum of 6-7".
I have no fear of doing machine work, I can do a precise enough job to work as needed. If it gets too deep, I can always take stuff to the machine shop next to my work. Or, if it will be really expensive there, then I'll call up Grainger and get myself a milling machine for a little under $2k. I can write that off as a business expense, and the shop will need one anyways.
I have no fear of doing machine work, I can do a precise enough job to work as needed. If it gets too deep, I can always take stuff to the machine shop next to my work. Or, if it will be really expensive there, then I'll call up Grainger and get myself a milling machine for a little under $2k. I can write that off as a business expense, and the shop will need one anyways.