Stuck!

[4x4x4crewcab]

Dan
To take that unit off you will need to first remove the lockout and any wheel bearings,clips,etc. from the front axle. Next you will need to remove the 10 or 12 bolts and upper and lower retainer plates and seal from the ball pivot area. Disconect the tierod from the unit. Unbolt the lower trunion cap (4 bolts,or studs etc..) this cap should look like the part shown in one of my earlier links. As Willowbilly3 mentioned this cap or trunion may be difficult to get off use a good penatrant and work it off (straight down) it may take a little prying etc.. If your bearings are bad they may fall out in many pieces on either the bottom or the top when removing these caps. Now remove the top arm and cap assy--I believe the arm and trunion are made together on thisside on the upper so you can use the arm as a lever to rock or work the cap out (straight up) Note again as Willowbilly3 mentioned try not to damage the shims under these caps. and keep them together when they come out so you can reinstall them in the same order.
after this it should be ready to come off. Not to bad of a job once you get started. Good Luck

[4x4x4crewcab]

Dan
You will also have a brake line to disconect--I forgot this step.
I assume you have drum brakes? as this is the style front I have and have worked on.

[willowbilly3]

Also after you have the bottom trunion cap off you may be able to get a long drift in there and tap out the upper.

[Fishbone]

Thanks guys. I really apprecate your help.

Do you know what kind of machine shop I should try to contact to get the bolts out for me?

Thanks again.

[4x4x4crewcab]

Dan
It should be a pretty easy job once its off. I am pretty sure the holes go all the way thru so they can be worked from either end.It may even require a little heat from a torch? I have had the best luck going to the old (been around awhile) shops. These guys usually know how to fix stuff some of these chain shops and new places just know how to pickup the phone and order a new piece. If they hear the application they will run and hide I see your location is Missouri so I would look for a good tractor or implement shop as well these type of mechanics can usually fix more stuff using only the vise grips on their belt.
Dan your axle and u-joint may be in your way if trying to tap the top cap out from the bottom but there maybe enough room with the correct tool and having the axle turned just right.

[willowbilly3]

Doesn't the axle just slide right out after you unbolt the spindle? Forgive me for going blank but it has been a few years since I had a closed knucke front end apart.
I do remember having one to rebuild that the bearings had gone bad in the trunion and it had almost wore through the machined pocket on the axle housing. I used one of my old welding tricks and dug in my bucket of carbon rods for a piece that was the same diameter as the race. Then put it in the hole and filled in the worn area with weld.

[4x4x4crewcab]

From what I remember the axle won't come out until after the pocket unit we are talking about is removed. All I had removed was the brake drum,lockout, lock nuts for bearings,wheel bearings and the wheel bearing hub and if I remember correctly the spindle and all brake parts for each wheel I had left attached to the pocket and pulled as one assy. After that is removed all that is left is the axle tube with the two races for the trunion bearings and the complete axle shaft and axle u-joint hanging out of the tube.

[4x4x4crewcab]

I can't remember the spindle area for sure. This is going to bug me until I remember

[willowbilly3]

By pocket area I assume you mean the knuckle itself. I can't remember for sure but looking at the diagram, maybe you are right and the axle won't come out unless you take off the knuckle. I am going to dig out a shop manual and see if I can find out.

[4x4x4crewcab]

Yeah Willow the pocket (knuckle). I may not have done the repair exactly
like the book. But the more I think about it the more I remember I had left the spindle attached. The axle may come out of the hole with the spindle removed but I know I did not work on mine that way. Dan I am sure either way will be fine. Good luck---- I hope you find out the reason it broke?

[Fishbone]

It broke because when I bought it, there was only one bolt holding the steering arm on, but I didn't know this.

The last brolt broke when I was trying to back out of my drive way. My car was parked behind me and the wife's minivan was on the right, so I was trying to squeeze through by pulling up, cutting the wheel, backing up, cutting the wheel, pulling up, etc, etc.

I guess the steering arm got bound up and snapped the only bolt left that was holding it on. This is my prediction anyway. I just need to get it fixed cause I need to get my wood hualed for this winter, and deer hunting season is coming up.

Thanks for all your help.

[willowbilly3]

I just looked in the service manual and it says to remove the brake backing plate and spindle then remove the drive shaft. So it does come out through the steering knuckle. I might add that anyone wanting to do some of their own repairs should get a set of service manuals. The whole sets go on ebay all the time for $20-$30. Just make sure you get all 4 volumes. I also picked up a reprint of the wiring diagram off ebay too.

[Fishbone]

Finally got the big red beast back on the road!!

Ended up drilling out the studs and re-treading new holes for about 1/2 inch, grade 8 bolts. That should hold it , aye!

Thanks for everyone's help. I took your advice, willybilly, and got me a set of service manuals from ebay. Only cost be around $21 with shipping.

I guess it's time to get back to cutting wood!