LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
The only "correct" power booster that I can find for 67 is a bendix type - which is a really weird looking contraption. If you look up numbers for vacuum boosters in say a napa computer it will list the booster only for 68-72 trucks. That's why I was under the impression that ford switched styles mid year or were simply using up old parts first. Maybe the later 67's had this 9" booster with a 68 and later style of pedal?
Now I wish I had a 68 instead of a 67!!
john
Now I wish I had a 68 instead of a 67!!
john
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
I agree. I've been thinking for a long time now that finding a 67 cab to replace my wrecked 69 cab was a terrible choice. But it added a little bit of uniqueness that I dug so I went ahead.
I know that the 69 pedal and master cylinder assembly would not work on the cab. Neither would the 69 cylinder with 67 pedals. I'm hoping the push rod from that brake booster Keith sent me will somehow be the perfect length. If not, I might try that nut-adjusting technique mentioned earlier.
If the booster is absolutetly out of the question. Does anyone know if there is a brand new master cylinder that would come with a brand new push rod for a 67? This pickup sure does need some brakes.
Out of curiosity....what happens if you install a brake master cylinder without bleeding it first? Will the lines just never bleed out all the air?
I know that the 69 pedal and master cylinder assembly would not work on the cab. Neither would the 69 cylinder with 67 pedals. I'm hoping the push rod from that brake booster Keith sent me will somehow be the perfect length. If not, I might try that nut-adjusting technique mentioned earlier.
If the booster is absolutetly out of the question. Does anyone know if there is a brand new master cylinder that would come with a brand new push rod for a 67? This pickup sure does need some brakes.
Out of curiosity....what happens if you install a brake master cylinder without bleeding it first? Will the lines just never bleed out all the air?
it's a 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70 automobile!
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
I knew I had a pic of a '67 with a booster somewhere, sorry for the delay. It's a F250 Camper Special.
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
The master cylinder pretty much won't do anything until you get fluid behind the plunger.
I put a pedal assy from a '71 parts truck in a '67 with no problems. I just had to use the later brakelight switch like was mentioned earlier.
And it seems like the new master cyl's come with the linkage rod.
I put a pedal assy from a '71 parts truck in a '67 with no problems. I just had to use the later brakelight switch like was mentioned earlier.
And it seems like the new master cyl's come with the linkage rod.
'71 F-100
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Re: re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
You'll have air trapped in the master cylinder that will be next to impossible to bleed out normally. Possible, but the problems can be avoided by bench-bleeding first.fordhombre wrote:...Out of curiosity....what happens if you install a brake master cylinder without bleeding it first? Will the lines just never bleed out all the air?
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
Well, i've got great news. The master cylinder Keith sent me fits!!!! I only put on the booster, but it connected to the pedal with no problem! So there's one answer to a long time prayer. As long as I get everything hooked up right, all I should need now is the wiring, and I've learned a bad ground can do some pretty bizarre stuff!
I'll post pics of the brake parts connected this afternoon!
I'll post pics of the brake parts connected this afternoon!
it's a 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70 automobile!
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
WHEW! I was a little worried about that after reading some of the other posts...cool, glad it worked for you.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
there's nothing special about connecting the master cylinder to the booster is there? I plan on attaching the booster, bleeding the cylinder, then attaching it. Is this the best way to go about it?
I was going to bleed the cylinder while attached to the booster, but the booster's a little tough to get on straight, and i didn't wanna have to worry about putting that on in a hurry with the cylinder. any suggestions?
I was going to bleed the cylinder while attached to the booster, but the booster's a little tough to get on straight, and i didn't wanna have to worry about putting that on in a hurry with the cylinder. any suggestions?
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
The easiest and best way imo is to first bolt everything up to the truck including stretching (carefully!) the existing brake lines to make sure no more problems and then disconnect the lines and bleed the mc.
The only tricky thing is the push rod coming out of the booster that pushes into the mc. Get the booster bolted up and connected to the brake pedal. Then push the rod into the booster to make sure it's all the way back. Take the mc and place it on the booster studs, slowly push the mc until it seats on the booster. When it gets close to butting up (this takes careful attention) make sure the rod does not bottom out into the mc and starts pushing in before the mc is seated against the booster. If it bottoms out first before the mc is seated, adjust the end of the rod so it's a tad shorter, use 1/4 turn increments. When you think the mc bottoms out first without the pushrod pushing on the mc, install the nuts on the mc and tighten it up against the booster. Now bleed the mc on the truck with short lines feeding back into the reservoirs, they sell bleeding kits for less than $10 that have all the fittings to do it. Don't push hard or fast on the pedal or else you'll make a big mess under the hood. After that, disconnect the bleeders and finally connect the brake lines. It's ok if a little fluid runs out of the open ports, it's better than air getting back in. Finally, you will probably have to bleed the system.
The only tricky thing is the push rod coming out of the booster that pushes into the mc. Get the booster bolted up and connected to the brake pedal. Then push the rod into the booster to make sure it's all the way back. Take the mc and place it on the booster studs, slowly push the mc until it seats on the booster. When it gets close to butting up (this takes careful attention) make sure the rod does not bottom out into the mc and starts pushing in before the mc is seated against the booster. If it bottoms out first before the mc is seated, adjust the end of the rod so it's a tad shorter, use 1/4 turn increments. When you think the mc bottoms out first without the pushrod pushing on the mc, install the nuts on the mc and tighten it up against the booster. Now bleed the mc on the truck with short lines feeding back into the reservoirs, they sell bleeding kits for less than $10 that have all the fittings to do it. Don't push hard or fast on the pedal or else you'll make a big mess under the hood. After that, disconnect the bleeders and finally connect the brake lines. It's ok if a little fluid runs out of the open ports, it's better than air getting back in. Finally, you will probably have to bleed the system.
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
please forgive my ignorance, but what do you mean by bottoming out?
everything is very helpful. to make sure i understand...
1.mount the booster to the pedal
2.push in the rod that reaches to the master cylinder
3.slide the master cylinder down the bolt spokes while still holding the push rod inside the booster
4.release the rod in a manner in which it sets evenly against the master cylinder
5.finish pushing the master cylinder all the way against the booster
6.tighten and bleed
is this somewhat correct? thanks for all the information!
everything is very helpful. to make sure i understand...
1.mount the booster to the pedal
2.push in the rod that reaches to the master cylinder
3.slide the master cylinder down the bolt spokes while still holding the push rod inside the booster
4.release the rod in a manner in which it sets evenly against the master cylinder
5.finish pushing the master cylinder all the way against the booster
6.tighten and bleed
is this somewhat correct? thanks for all the information!
it's a 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70 automobile!
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
Sorry about that, bottoming out means the pushrod coming out of the booster is starting to push against the plunger inside the mc.
1. Mount booster to pedal.
2. Push in the rod to make sure it's all the way inside the booster.
3. Slide the mc on the studs and 'feel' if the rod is bottoming out inside the mc and starting to push in on it. You can't hold the rod at this point, there's no room for your fingers. It's a 'feel' as you slide the mc up against the booster. You will feel more resistance if the rod is pushing on the mc. If it is bottoming out, it will happen at the point the mc is almost against the booster.
4. Spin on the two nuts and tighten.
5. Bleed mc.
I guess I'm better at doing things than explaining them, need a vocabulary! Guys, help me explain this better!
1. Mount booster to pedal.
2. Push in the rod to make sure it's all the way inside the booster.
3. Slide the mc on the studs and 'feel' if the rod is bottoming out inside the mc and starting to push in on it. You can't hold the rod at this point, there's no room for your fingers. It's a 'feel' as you slide the mc up against the booster. You will feel more resistance if the rod is pushing on the mc. If it is bottoming out, it will happen at the point the mc is almost against the booster.
4. Spin on the two nuts and tighten.
5. Bleed mc.
I guess I'm better at doing things than explaining them, need a vocabulary! Guys, help me explain this better!
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
http://www.fordification.com/images/67-2_day2-20.jpg
i think this is the same booster and cylinder i bought from keith. The rod doesn't come out of the booster, but out of the cylinder. either way, i think i understand what you're saying. But i need the rod to go into the booster completely horizontal right, that way it doesn't miss the contact point and start hitting the spring or something. thanks again for all your help!
i think this is the same booster and cylinder i bought from keith. The rod doesn't come out of the booster, but out of the cylinder. either way, i think i understand what you're saying. But i need the rod to go into the booster completely horizontal right, that way it doesn't miss the contact point and start hitting the spring or something. thanks again for all your help!
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
Ahh! I see what you mean!
Ok, here's the plan. Just bolt everything up and bleed the mc. I'm gonna assume that everything is ok since it was working together as a unit at one time.
The boosters I've seen had an adjustable pushrod that wasn't connected to the mc. Sorry for the confusion and wasteing your time!
Ok, here's the plan. Just bolt everything up and bleed the mc. I'm gonna assume that everything is ok since it was working together as a unit at one time.
The boosters I've seen had an adjustable pushrod that wasn't connected to the mc. Sorry for the confusion and wasteing your time!
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re: LMC Truck power brake booster for '67
nah, no waste of time. everything's helpful. and thanks alot for being patient and helping to explain everything!!!!
it's a 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70 automobile!