power window conversion

[67MercM100]

Here is what I am looking at.

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/mer ... e=EL1000-K

I tried them. Had problems with their '67 set-up.
Here's a picture looking forward on the left door. Their arm rubbed against the vent window divider.
They claimed they've had many installed successfully (to the point of accusing me of not having a '67 door).
For what it's worth, they allowed me to return them. It would have been a sweet and easy set-up - even though the window-crank switches wouldn't have been an option.

[sargentrs]

Darn! I had a set bookmarked and now I can't find it. Similar to this http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1044 but that's not the one. The one I had located had a white covering over the chain/cable part and was much cleaner looking. Basically, it uses your existing set up and just replaces and power operates the crank mechanism. Looked like a clean install with minimal retrofit.

[Hawkrod]

You can use the power windows from an 80-96 pretty easily. I have done several. The most important thing is to get the mount pattern right. Also note that the roller is a different size but can be either trimmed or replaced. Here are some pics from one that I did (it is a dent but they are very similar): http://www.supermotors.net/registry/1812/9636. Hawkrod

Actually the dent and bump doors are quite different inside. The dents use a hinge that mounts to the end of the door. Bumps have hinges that extend into the door with a large inside portion used for hinge mounting. This type of mounting is also part of what makes single piece door glass a challenge. Bumps also have a recessed area behind the panel that needs removed to clear the regulator as it sweeps. I have considered altering my door mounts to use the dent hinges making pwr window and one piece windows a much easier install. They now make a glass kit and pwr windows is not that big of a deal. Just takes some time to get it working correctly.

You are mistaken, the window area is almost identical between a bump and a dent. The hinges have no impact at all as they are forward of the vent assembly and the regulator is below and behind the vent window which allows the later parts to still work just fine. Hawkrod

[elgemcdlf]

You can use the power windows from an 80-96 pretty easily. I have done several. The most important thing is to get the mount pattern right. Also note that the roller is a different size but can be either trimmed or replaced. Here are some pics from one that I did (it is a dent but they are very similar): http://www.supermotors.net/registry/1812/9636. Hawkrod

Actually the dent and bump doors are quite different inside. The dents use a hinge that mounts to the end of the door. Bumps have hinges that extend into the door with a large inside portion used for hinge mounting. This type of mounting is also part of what makes single piece door glass a challenge. Bumps also have a recessed area behind the panel that needs removed to clear the regulator as it sweeps. I have considered altering my door mounts to use the dent hinges making pwr window and one piece windows a much easier install. They now make a glass kit and pwr windows is not that big of a deal. Just takes some time to get it working correctly.

You are mistaken, the window area is almost identical between a bump and a dent. The hinges have no impact at all as they are forward of the vent assembly and the regulator is below and behind the vent window which allows the later parts to still work just fine. Hawkrod

Well just call me from MO because you are going to have to show me. As someone who has put window units from a '90 into a bump the hinge area inside the bump door played a major factor. Unless there is a rotation that will work that is different than what I found the motor ended up in the hinge area causing stress on the regulator arm. Shimming farther from the inner door panel only increases the stress as it moves the arm farther away from a natural position aligned in the track. So perhaps you can show pics from a bump install instead of a dent. That way assumptions will be proven.

[Hawkrod]

Well just call me from MO because you are going to have to show me. As someone who has put window units from a '90 into a bump the hinge area inside the bump door played a major factor. Unless there is a rotation that will work that is different than what I found the motor ended up in the hinge area causing stress on the regulator arm. Shimming farther from the inner door panel only increases te stress as it moves th arm farther away rom a natural position aligned in the track. So perhaps you can show pics from a bump install instead of a dent. That way assumptions will be proven.

I will have to see if I have pictures of the last one I did. I have done a bunch of them over the years and never had an issue. Hawkrod

[Fordboyrod]

Does anyone know if there is room to put a speaker in the door panel after the conversion? I plan on using the power setup from a 96 F150. As long as the speaker wires are part of the door harness why not put them to use?

[elgemcdlf]

Does anyone know if there is room to put a speaker in the door panel after the conversion? I plan on using the power setup from a 96 F150. As long as the speaker wires are part of the door harness why not put them to use?

I have 5" round speakers in the bottom of my doors.

[Calfdemon]

Im getting very close to pulling the trigger on some power windows for the crew cab, and am still leaning towards nu-relics. While checking them out, I found this youtube video that someone put up for their 68 bump. The windows seem pretty sweet and his interior is very custom with some very nice stuff!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMBzZBz7w-w

Still trying to figure out how I will make this work with 4 windows instead of just 2.

[67mann]

Darn! I had a set bookmarked and now I can't find it. Similar to this http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1044 but that's not the one. The one I had located had a white covering over the chain/cable part and was much cleaner looking. Basically, it uses your existing set up and just replaces and power operates the crank mechanism. Looked like a clean install with minimal retrofit.

Is this it http://www.a1electric.com/spal.htm I've got these guys BM'd because of this.... http://www.bumpsides.com/int.html

[Calfdemon]

Hey 67mann, thanks for posting both of those links. I ended up going with a1electric based on reading the install notes from that other bump owner. I ended up getting their 4 door kit for over half the price from what I would have spent at nu-relics. So once I get my truck painted and begin putting everything back together, I will be updating my build thread. Got the tax return money and just purchased the carpet, sound deadening mat, electric door locks and keyless entry, and power windows. Now to finish off the rest of my list and then put this stuff away till needed.

[67mann]

Rich.....be sure to take good pic's...so I can pick your brain when it comes time for me It really looks like a nice (simple) set up and cost effective from what I've seen

[Calfdemon]

Will do... They have fast shipping too. I ordered these on Wednesday and the UPS truck pulled up today and delivered them. Of course, they are located in Torrance, CA, which is only about 50 miles south of me, but still. They obviously got them out the very next day after I placed my order.

[sargentrs]

Darn! I had a set bookmarked and now I can't find it. Similar to this http://www.electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1044 but that's not the one. The one I had located had a white covering over the chain/cable part and was much cleaner looking. Basically, it uses your existing set up and just replaces and power operates the crank mechanism. Looked like a clean install with minimal retrofit.

Is this it http://www.a1electric.com/spal.htm I've got these guys BM'd because of this.... http://www.bumpsides.com/int.html

That's it! Thanks, I've got it BM'd now.