1971 F-250 4x4 brakes
Moderator: FORDification
-
- New Member
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Fri Mar 11, 2005 12:17 am
- Location: California, Pleasnton
1971 F-250 4x4 brakes
Hello friends. I am trying to over haul my brakes. So first me and a friend drained the fluid in the entire system, replaced 2 cloged bleder valves and then replaced the master cylinder. We refilled the system and bled it for a long time trying to get them fully pressurized, the padel goes down 1/2 before there is any real restiance and it did not feel well pressurized. I tested it in my yard and tried to lock them up in gravel. Well the rear brakes skided but the fronts did not The problem is I couldnt remove the drums I took off thr wheel tried to knock it free to no avail. My buddy wanted to remove my warn hub. I did and was not convinced that I was on the right track so I put it back together and thought about takeing it to a brake shop. What is the trick to getting the drums off? My father in law said there is an adjustment to release the tension on the drums before removeing them is that it? I sure could use a chiltons 1971 F250 4x4 thanks for any help Im stuck
- heep70
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 2039
- Joined: Mon Sep 13, 2004 11:03 pm
- Location: Washington, Bonney Lake
- Contact:
re: 1971 F-250 4x4 brakes
You need to release the tension from the brake shoes. If you can't get the drums off after taking out the three screws more then likely the drums are very worn. That could be why you don't have very good brakes. There is a rubber plug on the back of the backing plate. Remove it and either get the tool to adjust the brakes or use two screw drivers. One to push the arm away from the adjuster and the other to turn the adjuster.
When you bleed brakes you do not need to drain the system. You may have trapped some air in the system making the pedal less responsive. After you check the brake shoes you will probably want to start the bleeding process at the master cylinder. Brake the connection lose and have someone press the pedal. Next move to the dispersement block and do the same thing.
Next time you want to bleed the brakes. Loosen the farthest bleeder and have some one pump the pedal 5 -10 times and close the bleeder. Then move to the next farthest one and do the same thing. Remember to check the M.S. to make sure it is full.
When you bleed brakes you do not need to drain the system. You may have trapped some air in the system making the pedal less responsive. After you check the brake shoes you will probably want to start the bleeding process at the master cylinder. Brake the connection lose and have someone press the pedal. Next move to the dispersement block and do the same thing.
Next time you want to bleed the brakes. Loosen the farthest bleeder and have some one pump the pedal 5 -10 times and close the bleeder. Then move to the next farthest one and do the same thing. Remember to check the M.S. to make sure it is full.
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
-
- Preferred User
- Posts: 326
- Joined: Tue Aug 10, 2004 11:06 pm
- Location: Lancaster, Pennsylvania
re: 1971 F-250 4x4 brakes
Do yourself a favor and get the Factory Service Manual if you can and not the chiltons. I have it it covers from like 65-80 something and its about worthless. IMO.