Ingnition Switch

[greggh]

How is the (key) Ignition switch removed?

I have the wheel off, the column loosened and not sure where to go from there.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

TIA

[mrsnicks]

If it's an original steering column, the ignition switch should be on the dash.

It unplugs in the back, and the front ring screws off so you can pull it out from the backside of the dash.

There is a special tool to remove the ring, but I've always used a flathead screwdriver.

Patrick

[greggh]

I am sorry, I did not give the year of the truck.
It is a 1990 original stearing column.

[greggh]

It is a 1990 F150 4.9 automatic 2 wheel drive without the tilt steering column.

[greggh]

Thanks I will try it,

The Hanes manual says to use an 1/8 inch bit to drill the pin out.

Took the new one and tried turning it and pushing the pin in and it does not move. Makes me wonder if I get the old how is the new one supposed to fit in?

[mrsnicks]

If you have to try a paperclip, that's always worked for me.

Patrick

[greggh]

Ok So what you guys said worked I should never have doubted you.
The ignition switch workes great.

Here is the problem I am having.

The starter went south, so I put in a new one and started fine but then the starter drive would not release. Bad starter? So I thought after four different starters I figured I should try something else.
Ignition switch has always been flaky so I figured I would replace it.
Still the starter drive stays engaged after starting.
Put new battery post connecter to the cables, replaced the syliniod twice, still same problem
I bought an Ignition Starter Switch but I have no idea were it goes.
The truck is a 1990 F150 4.9 automatic 2 wheel drive. I have had a 1992 long block swap about four years ago; the motor came out of an E150 Van.
I am at a loss as to what would cause the starter drive to keep hanging up after it starts.

I will try to attach a picture of the Ignition Starter Switch.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
TIA

Gregg.

[rjewkes]

sounds like a wire either is crossing or yoour starter could be installed at a slight angle.

i had the same problem once.

also could be the two tiny wires on the selinoid are on in the wrong spot.

[Wes]

Take the lower cover off below the steering column, there will be 2 or 4 13 mm nuts holding a clamp style bracket remove these. Now the column will be loose on the steering wheel end. on the right upper side of the column @ 10 " from the floor board you will the ignition switch it is held on with 2 5/16's or 8 mm screws. be sure to get the actuator rod in correctly when you put the new one on. This switch was a nation wide recall ( the new switch wasn't much better than the old). Hope this helps.

[greggh]

I have gotten the key replaced,
But where is the modual located, the one that I have as an attachement in the earlier post?

[l1k2gadd]

Make sure the red wire with the blue stripe is on the "S" (start) post on the solenoid (where the positive battery cable is connected) and the brown wire is on the "I" (Ignition) post on the starter solenoid.

The ignition switch is located on the TOP side of the steering column, under the dash. Lowering the column a little by unbolting the bracket that holds the column to the dash will reveal the location of the ignition switch. DO NOT remove the clip that is inside and across the new switch. This keeps the switch in the Park or Neutral position (I forget which) until the new switch is bolted down on the column and resting on the slide selector rod that connects to the key switch.

[Wes]

I have gotten the key replaced,
But where is the modual located, the one that I have as an attachement in the earlier post?

See my post #10 in this thread or l1k2gadd post. That "module" is the actual electrical switch. It bolted to the side of the steering column under the dash.

[greggh]

So the problem was not being able to find the Ignition Starter switch was not because I was looking in the wrong place it was because the 1990 F150 has a 1992 Steering column in place of the original column.

Now as soon as I can get the piece changed out I hope this solves my problem, otherwise I will be at a loss as to what the problem would be.
Wish me luck. I hope to have time Friday evening to make the swap.
Happy thoughts
Happy thoughts

[l1k2gadd]

Ok, here is a picture of a 1986 Bronco column that I have had sitting outside for some time now. You can see the two studs that protrude out from the column where the ignition switch is bolted down. They are rusty from sitting in the weather. The long rod you see coming from the steering wheel section of the column is the rod that goes underneath the ignition switch in the small hole in the bottom of the switch. The switch must remain locked with the spring clip across the top so it goes onto the column in the correct position. When you bolt the new switch down and tighten it up the clip gets removed and the electrical plug gets plugged into the switch.

This is only about a 1/2 job at the max once you have replaced one already.

You can see the column to dash bracket on the column in the picture too.

NOTE... with a column-shift automatic tranny vehicle there is a small thin almost thread-sized cable that comes from the column shift selector area and is connected to the P R N D 2 1 shift indicator IF the one in your truck is in the instrument panel. You can see that piece hanging from this column in the picture. There is a plastic collar on the column that the thread-like wire is connected to. Be careful not to break the plastic collar or you will have to ty-wrap it back in place to get the shift dial in the instrument panel to read right when you shift through the truck's gears.

(edit) Also, this is hard to explain, but, the plug that is connected to you column has the tabs on it that I believe get pushed in real hard to get the plug to release from the old column switch. Some of Ford's wiring connectors have tabs that get pushed out a little to release them, like you would do with a little flat-head screwdriver, and others get pushed in to release them. The plugs with tabs that get pushed in to release them are usuallu a two-piece open-ended tab while the others are closed-ended. I don't have a picture to show you what I am referring to. If you pry out on the two-piece tab to unplug it the halves will usually break off when you pry up on it or go to unplug it.