My Air Inlet Duct Leaks!!!

[Jay's67F100]

While I was installing a new dash pad in my 67 F100 yesterday, I noticed the Air Inlet Duct seal is leaky. It's been raining pretty good here in NorCal, but I can tell it's been leaky for some time. I would think a new seal will fix her up, one thing I'm wondering is what's on the other side of that seal? I don't wanna crack open that seal and have a surprise waiting for me on the other side. Thanks!

[peanutman]

If your talking about the one on the passenger side- rubber boot between heater housing and open-close lever it could be the heater core leaking. Water should not be getting into that area unless maybe the drain holes that drain the cowl is stopped up. Drives side vent leaking water would be stopped up cowl drain holes. Someone correct ne if im wrong.

More info or pics would help.

[Jay's67F100]

If your talking about the one on the passenger side- rubber boot between heater housing and open-close lever it could be the heater core leaking. Water should not be getting into that area unless maybe the drain holes that drain the cowl is stopped up. Drives side vent leaking water would be stopped up cowl drain holes. Someone correct ne if im wrong.

More info or pics would help.

Okay here's a pic of what I'm talking about.

[peanutman]

Thats probably drain holes stopped up- water backing up and leaking into cab

[Jay's67F100]

Thats probably drain holes stopped up- water backing up and leaking into cab

Gotcha, thanks Peanutman!!! How can I clean it out? Does the fender have to come off?

[flyboy2610]

Pull the air inlet box and boot off and you can reach inside the cab to clean the junk out. You may have to remove the heater box assembly. Coat everything inside with a good rust converting paint, and then top coat with more paint.
Don't feel bad. This is on my spring to do list as well.

[Jay's67F100]

Pull the air inlet box and boot off and you can reach inside the cab to clean the junk out. You may have to remove the heater box assembly. Coat everything inside with a good rust converting paint, and then top coat with more paint.
Don't feel bad. This is on my spring to do list as well.

Thanks Flyboy! I was wondering how to get in there, since it's welded to the cab. I can see all kinds of leaves and stuff piled up in there.

When you remove the heater box, does the heater core have to come out too?

[FORDification]

Well, sorta...the heater core is IN the heater box.

[Banjo]

beware, if i recall there is one clip on the backside that is hard to reach and if you aren't careful you could tear stuff up, but my memory might be failing. But, yeah, that is what is wrong, drain clogged and water backup up into your vent area.

[peanutman]

You can remove the air inlet and boot without removing the heater box. Not an easy task but it can be done.
This is a major issue in our trucks, has anyone tried cutting accesses for those areas to make debris removable easier.
After cutting accesses make covers that screw back down with a gasket.(Was just thinking out loud). Areas- maybe in engine compartment or under fender wells.

[Banjo]

Peanut is right, BUT I imagine if your truck is line mine, it likely needs some new defroster hoses by now too, and kinda a good time to replace the heater core while it's out. I did all that, painting my heater box inside and out w/rustoleum and installed new heater/defrost control cables and a new plastic inline control valve in the heater hose under the hood and now I have a VERY funtional and excellant working heater! I lubed all the things I could lube w/white lithium grease after cleaning too. Best work I ever did to make the truck more enjoyable for a modest amount of cash.

[Jay's67F100]

You can remove the air inlet and boot without removing the heater box. Not an easy task but it can be done.
This is a major issue in our trucks, has anyone tried cutting accesses for those areas to make debris removable easier.
After cutting accesses make covers that screw back down with a gasket.(Was just thinking out loud). Areas- maybe in engine compartment or under fender wells.

Thanks! I'll try it with out removing the heater core/box and see how it goes.

This is my 1st Classic Ford project, I've had a couple Fox Body Mustangs before but no classics. I've been into old Chevy's since I was a kid, my 68 C/20 truck had a removable cowl and so does my 67 Camaro. Something like that would come in handy on these trucks.

[Jay's67F100]

Peanut is right, BUT I imagine if your truck is line mine, it likely needs some new defroster hoses by now too, and kinda a good time to replace the heater core while it's out. I did all that, painting my heater box inside and out w/rustoleum and installed new heater/defrost control cables and a new plastic inline control valve in the heater hose under the hood and now I have a VERY funtional and excellant working heater! I lubed all the things I could lube w/white lithium grease after cleaning too. Best work I ever did to make the truck more enjoyable for a modest amount of cash.

I ordered a few things from LMC today, one of them was a new heater control valve. I would've got a new heater control cable too, but they don't have one for a 67 in their catalog. All the heater control cables were marked 68-72. I checked NPD and a few others with the same result. The defrost hoses seemed okay when I installed the new dash pad, then would've been the time to change them since the dash pad has to come off I think?

[Lar4t9r]

I ordered a few things from LMC today, one of them was a new heater control valve. I would've got a new heater control cable too, but they don't have one for a 67 in their catalog. All the heater control cables were marked 68-72. I checked NPD and a few others with the same result. The defrost hoses seemed okay when I installed the new dash pad, then would've been the time to change them since the dash pad has to come off I think?

Jay:
If your cable is just sticking and not broken, you might try what i did. I used PB Blaster, squirting it inside the casing of the cable and working it 'til is was freed up and sliding freely. I then used some silicone spray to lubricate it and put it back in the truck. It's been working real nice for over a year now.

[fordman]

to replace the heater duct hose the dash pad can stay on. it just squeeze fits into the metal dash underneath the dash pad.