Duraspark II Conversion

[Chasbod]

I have read up on the conversions and have a couple of questions:

Some have said it's ok to use the factory stock + Coil wire lead which uses the Bypass wire on Start and the Resistor wire on Run (factory setup). Others have recommended eliminating those and just wiring a Hot 12 V directly to the + Coil and the Red power wire of the Duraspark module. Does it really matter?


Also, for the 12v power source for the Red module wire, can you just use the blue pigtail next to the Engine harness which I believe is there to power an idle solenoid (which I'm not using)? Can I also use that blue pigtail for the electric choke?

They also recommended taking the White module wire to the "S" connection of the Starting Relay which has the Red/Blue Start wire....this is supposed to retard the starting timing.

Thanks,

CB

[fitzwell]

get a tfi coil...(think injected 5.0). This eliminates the need for the ballast resistor inline to the coil. Just make sure you get 12v into the coil in both crank & run. I'd catch that wire from the switch, before it goes into the resistance wire in the ignition harness. The white wire from the module goes to the "I" terminal on the solenoid, crank(starting ) signal into the box. Red wire from the module needs 12v in the run position.

[Dragon]

[LANCE65]

I just posted a few diagrams for everyone. One being DS II with a 12v high perf coil.

[Dragon]

I just posted a few diagrams for everyone. One being DS II with a 12v high perf coil.

Where?

[LANCE65]

They are a sticky now.

[f1shermun]

I wired the white wire to the post with the red blue starting wire and the starter hung engaged. Has any one else had this problem? I think I saw some where that I was supposed to remove the other small wire from the solenoid. I believe it is brown in color. Is this necessary? What function does it serve?

[Dragon]

The brown wire is the coil hot during start wire. Remove all the small wires and touch a screw driver from the bat terminals to the small terminal next to it. That engages the solenoid. As it cranks remove the driver if it continues cranking it is a bad solenoid. If it stops you have a bad ignition switch or a shorted wire. Are you talking the white duraspark wire then look at the wiring diagrams again it does not go there.

[MadMaxetc]

Stock:

Here is what I did:


You can see the relays on the right.

[f1shermun]

Thanks guys. The diagrams were a huge help. I havent figured out why the engine accelerates so much slower with the electronic ignition though. Have you guys had any issues like that? I have the timing set at 12BTDC

[Dragon]

It should not get worse. The output is hotter have you adjusted the spark gap?

[f1shermun]

I havent touched the plugs. I wasnt sure if I should mess with them if I was still using the points style smaller distributor cap. I had the cap off yesterday and I noticed that when I pull a vacuum on the advance it will pull the pickup around 1/8 and hang up for a second and then pop loose and move the rest of the way. the advance moves fine when it is loose from the pick-up module. I tried cleaning it up with lubricating oil but it is still sticking. What do you recommend i do to fix that?

[f1shermun]

what gap would you recommend? they are gapped at .035 now.

[BobbyFord]

what gap would you recommend? they are gapped at .035 now.

.045

[f1shermun]

okay, i gapped the plugs at .045 and got new plug wires. the motor sounds better when I have it in park but when I give it gas from a stop, I get a back fire through the carb and the motor tries to die.