Will not Start

[68FORDJBM]

Okay, now the old truck won't start. It turns over and over and I suspect there is a problem with lack of fire - I'm getting fuel. What is the most likey cause? I've replaced the plugs, dizzy, points, condensor, cap, rotor, carb. I've had a world of problems with getting my timing set and I finally have it set correctly. I fixed a bunch of vacuum leaks and thought it would fire right up and run perfect but now I can't even get it to fire up. I put on an new set of old plug wires so I'm suspicious of the new wires and how well they are connecting to the plugs. The only other thing is the coil but what are the chances that would go out on me now. It looks like it is in good shape. Looking for ideas so I don't go spending a bunch of money on the wrong stuff. Thanks.

[fordman]

so this truck ran before but was not running good enough for you right? so you have been changing timing and plugs and wires and giving it a tune up to get it to run better? but now it wont start? am i right so far. i am going to proceed as if i am right. i would check to see where you do or don't have fire at. check the wire coming out of the coil. ground it and crank the enigne over. if you get a spark then the wiring is good to the coil. then you put that back together. plug a wire off of the dist and ground it. crank it again. if it gets spark then my thought would be possible incorrect spark plug wire placement.

if there would be no spark from the dist. i would check to make sure the condensor is groudning properly. and if you can see a spark jump the gap in the points when the engine turns over.

other possibilites is the timing is incorrect to let the engine start.

[68FORDJBM]

I'm going to go with the last thing you said. The only thing I did since the truck was last running with retarded timing was reverse the vacuum lines to their correct position. Would that change the timing from where I had it set to operate before? I'm guessing yes.

I'll check the other things you mentioned too. When you say "ground" a wire do you mean hold it away from the block or some other metal surface? I just don't want to do anything stupid or unsafe. I really need to pick up a remote starter:)

[BobbyFord]

Reversing vac lines will not change timing. Pull the coil wire out of the dist. cap and hold it about 1/2" from metal engine surface and have someone crank the motor over.

[fordman]

its not a wire on the condensor that grounds. it ground to the breaker plate with a screw. if the ground at the screw is good it should work.

[68FORDJBM]

Replaced the coil and it needed replaced since it was leaking. Truck fired up with some difficulty on Tuesday night. I managed to set the timing and adjust the idle speed and took it on a test drive where it performed the best is has since I bought the truck.

Went to drive it to work this morning and it wouldnt start - just turned over? It was a bit cold but I thought I'd at least get it to "almost start." Anyway, I had to drive the minivan to work again:(

I'll keep at it but looking for suggestions? Thanks!

[fordman]

fuel draining back into the tank can happen if they sit too long or it can dry up. start over and check for spark and fuel to the carb.

[1971ford]

Distributor 180 out????

We couldn't get my 390 to fire and we checked everything. then a buddy suggested we had it 180 off and bam it started.

[westernkansas]

I am having the same problem with not starting the coil is fairly new say within the last 6 months, new plugs, new points and condenser. i am not getting spark at the plug end nor from the coil but there is some sparkage at the points since i left the key on while setting the points. the motor turns . begiining to wonder if there is no juice in the coil, like from the silinoid to coil, but i am getting spark at points. also wonder if the timing chain itself is broke, how can one tell without ripping the front of the engine apart. may run a wire from the selinoid to the coil if i can figure out what post to run from and to

[fordman]

if the rotor turns when cranking the enigne the chain is still on there. you can check to see if you are getting power to the coil or maybe the coil isnt grounding good through the strap and into the engine block.

[westernkansas]

what would be the best way to see how much power the coil is getting with a volt meter

[fordman]

the volt meter should tell how much power its getting by hooking one end to ground and the other to the hot wire coming out of the cab wiring. this would be while it is getting turned over.

[westernkansas]

woohoo it is alive. brother in law came down from KC so i put his tail to work. he fiddled with the dizzy and the choke and the carb now the old hungry hippo has an engine that just sits there as it is running it is not shaking all over, it starts on the first crank......he did say my vac advance is clogged and he put a chunck of metal inside the dizzy to hold the vac open. so i will leave it as is for now, although he did suggest to get some hot spark plugs like bosch platinum but heck they are like 7 bucks each

[68FORDJBM]

Time to re-visit this subject:
The truck runs great once I get it running. I only start it up and drive it about once a week and every time I do it takes me about fifteen minutes of cranking, pumping the gas, waiting, riding the gas peddal. etc. It's a race to see if it will start before the battery dies:) I don't know if its possible to get to a point where it fires up and runs within five miniutes every time but that is where I need to be. Any suggerstions on where to adjust to get the start up optimized?

I did notice one curious thing: when I first bought the truck, it would fire right up and idle real fast like it should when the choke is closed. It would take a while to get it warm and running but once warm there were other issues that I've since corrected (bad coil, vaccum advance, timing, etc). Now, every now and then the fast idle will kick in like it once did but I can't figure out how to make it consistantly work like that? Is there an adjustment I need to make?

FYI, I have a dbl barrel carb on a 1972 360 with a automatic choke - not electric.