'67 won't start with key....

[tsherry]

Here’s the deal:

67 F250, 390 4bbl, 4 speed, Pertronix ignition. Headers (a bad thing), new battery cables, new battery, new solenoid (none of which are part of the current problem). Good grounds all around, as in, perfect.

The headers managed to cook the second starter that I’ve put on the truck. I replaced the old stock type starter with a Torquemaster starter that can handle the heat from the (insulated, wrapped) headers.

Got it all put back together today, and the beastie won’t start with the key. The new starter will turn when I jump across the solenoid, (large terminals) or from the first large terminal to the starter terminal on the solenoid (so, I believe that the solenoid is fine.)

What do I need to check next, in terms of the ignition circuit from switch to the solenoid? Any pointers from the wizened folks at Fordification?

[fordman]

is the torque master a mini starter? or is it just like the old starter? wiggle the ignition switch the next time you try also.

[basketcase0302]

Any pointers from the wizened folks at Fordification?

I don't know how wizened I am but I'd try this...
Put a voltage meter on the + side of the coil to verify if the ignition switch is sending power to the coil.
Does the starter turn over using the key switch? If not, I'd be looking at the resistance wiring that leads from the solenoid to the ignition switch.

Good luck!

[Thunderfoot]

Wiggle the shifter (automatic) around a bit could be the Natural Safety Switch (NSS) is out of adjustment.

[tsherry]

is the torque master a mini starter? or is it just like the old starter? wiggle the ignition switch the next time you try also.

Mini-starter. Needed the clearance with these headers. Old starter was maybe a quarter inch from the tubes....

Tried wiggling the switch, everything. Got nuthin'.

[tsherry]

Any pointers from the wizened folks at Fordification?

I don't know how wizened I am but I'd try this...
Put a voltage meter on the + side of the coil to verify if the ignition switch is sending power to the coil.
Does the starter turn over using the key switch? If not, I'd be looking at the resistance wiring that leads from the solenoid to the ignition switch.

Good luck!

Will try checking the voltage. As-is, turning the switch to start doesn't do a thing, except exercise one's spring-resistance muscles in my hand, holding the key to 'start.'

[fordman]

i can't explain how to do it. but the mini starters use a different wiring setup than our trucks. there is a real old thread that tells how to do it. i will do a search and see if i can find it.

[fordman]

i didnt completely read these two threads but here is what i found.

http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 328#212328
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... ks#p224493

[tsherry]

Fixed it.

It was an ID 10 T error...as in, 'Idiot'.

The two small wires going to the solenoid were reversed....no juice when I turned the key. Once I scraped off the black paint that the PO had sprayed all over Hell and gone, it was easy.

FYI, the mini-starters do need a jumper between the conventional 'large' terminal for the solenoid to battery and a small terminal about an inch away. I suspect that on other applications, there is a switched wire that connects to this small terminal, directly to a toggle on the dash.

The only down side of the ministarter, is that it sounds like a Mopar when it starts.....until that 390 rumbles up, that is....

Thanks, All!

[fordman]

chrysler uses a gear reduction starter. that is probably why it makes that noise. the mini starters have gears in them the turn with the armature.