power window conversion

[Fordboyrod]

I was wondering if anyone had any advise on converting my 72 F350 to power windows? I have a complete power window system out of a 96 F150 I was going to try to use. Any advise would be appreciated.

[elgemcdlf]

That is basically what I have in my doors. Mine came from a '90. You will have to take the track off the '96 windows and put them on the bottom of the '72 windows. Getting your motor set it fun. There is a somewhat large recessed area in the door that you need to remove so the regulator gear can swing through that area. You will want to run the motor to the all the way down position. Run your window down to flush with the door & find a way to lock it in position. Now you want to lace the motor so it is near the end of the track towards the front. You want the motor as far forward on the door as possible as you will see there is very little travel on the track. Drill a couple holes and mount the motor with those holes. Run the window up slowly checking to make sure you won't come out of the track. If you do come out of the track you will have to reposition the motor.

You will notice a ton of pressure on the regulator. Space the motor assembly away from the door to help relieve this. I am going to take mine out and use the universal kit for flat glass street rod applications. The kit is around $250.

[basketcase0302]

Guys...
I'd love to do this to my bump.
Please...take a few pictures to give us all a headstart.

[elgemcdlf]

Guys...
I'd love to do this to my bump.
Please...take a few pictures to give us all a headstart.

I did mine over a year ago & didn't take any pics. Sorry. If someone wants to post a pic of a door with the inner panel removed I will draw an outline on the portion that needs removed from the door. Something else to note about motor placement. It doesn't necessarily need to be all the way forward. You can rotate the assembly upward & towards the rear of the door. You want it setup so the window opens just to the top of the door opening and on the upward travel the regulator does not come out of the track.

The door frame will stop upward motion. Doing it as I describe the factory stop on the regulator will control downward motion. I am about 90% certain I am doing the 1 piece door glass conversion and at that time I will be swapping mine out for the universal street rod kit. They even have switches (you can use them with factory windows as well) that go in place of the window crank hole and take the factory handle so it looks like you still have crank windows. Slightly down for down and same for up.

[flyboy2610]

http://electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1082
http://electric-life.com/shopexd.asp?id=1245
(It says modifications required, but I don't remember having to do much to the door. It pretty much just bolted on.)

This is the setup I'm using. I have the passenger side window in the door I will be putting on the truck. I'm getting another drivers side door and will be rebuilding that as well.
I ordered a pair of dark blue '69 Ranger door panels
http://npd.dirxion.com/WebProject.asp?B ... flx&from=2# part#F-DPR-69-CC
from NPD and secured some thin metal (actually, a soda pop can I cut up) to the back to provide some more support to where I mounted the switches. I have tested the window and it goes up and down just slicker than snot on a doorknob.
I hope to get all this on the truck next spring (along with a complete rear brake job, new king pins, and new I-beam and radius rod bushings.)
It just never ends.

[elgemcdlf]

Here is what I am looking at.

http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/mer ... e=EL1000-K

This plus switches comes out to $369.95. The switches I would get from a different supplier. I have found the same switches @ $85/each

I am curious about the kit you list. What is th motor? A standard Ford (looks like it). Your kit is also designed for the bump. The '90 (the truck I used) & the '96 are different doors on the inside. The later model windows had larger bushings on the end of the regulator which is why you have to change the lower track. You could grind the bushings down but why not just swap out the channel?

Where does your motor assembly mount? High, low, same as where the old crank was?

[red403]

I used the factory regulators and cut off the window crank. I cut it down so I could move the pivot point inward so the motor spocket will run on the window crank gear, I welded tabs onto the regulator and mounted a window motor from a 1977 mercury grand marquis that I have for a motor doner(460). The only tricky part is mouting the window motor it has to be tilted just a little bit so they don't hit the door hindge but they work just fine. For switches I am using 2 sets of ford van switches(one set for the bezel only), and for the power door locks they are from a 1995 f150. I have tried the system, it will work perfect and all for about $10 and a little time.

[Fordboyrod]

That is basically what I have in my doors. Mine came from a '90. You will have to take the track off the '96 windows and put them on the bottom of the '72 windows. Getting your motor set it fun. There is a somewhat large recessed area in the door that you need to remove so the regulator gear can swing through that area. You will want to run the motor to the all the way down position. Run your window down to flush with the door & find a way to lock it in position. Now you want to lace the motor so it is near the end of the track towards the front. You want the motor as far forward on the door as possible as you will see there is very little travel on the track. Drill a couple holes and mount the motor with those holes. Run the window up slowly checking to make sure you won't come out of the track. If you do come out of the track you will have to reposition the motor.

You will notice a ton of pressure on the regulator. Space the motor assembly away from the door to help relieve this. I am going to take mine out and use the universal kit for flat glass street rod applications. The kit is around $250.

Where did you end up mounting your switches?

[elgemcdlf]

That is basically what I have in my doors. Mine came from a '90. You will have to take the track off the '96 windows and put them on the bottom of the '72 windows. Getting your motor set it fun. There is a somewhat large recessed area in the door that you need to remove so the regulator gear can swing through that area. You will want to run the motor to the all the way down position. Run your window down to flush with the door & find a way to lock it in position. Now you want to lace the motor so it is near the end of the track towards the front. You want the motor as far forward on the door as possible as you will see there is very little travel on the track. Drill a couple holes and mount the motor with those holes. Run the window up slowly checking to make sure you won't come out of the track. If you do come out of the track you will have to reposition the motor.

You will notice a ton of pressure on the regulator. Space the motor assembly away from the door to help relieve this. I am going to take mine out and use the universal kit for flat glass street rod applications. The kit is around $250.

Where did you end up mounting your switches?

They are currently centrally located under the dash. I hadn't decided what I was going to do as far as switches went so instead of cutting holes I would later lose up I just hung them there.

[70_F100]

I've been thinking about getting some from these guys: http://www.nu-relics.com/

Just a few miles up the road from me, and I've heard GOOD things about them!!

[67MercM100]

I am going to take mine out and use the universal kit for flat glass street rod applications. The kit is around $250.

Let me know how that goes. Take pictures this time!!
I'd like to do the same thing. I have a kit and messed with it some, but eventually "tabled that motion" until a later time. Anything you can figure out would sure help.

[Calfdemon]

I've been thinking about getting some from these guys: http://www.nu-relics.com/

Just a few miles up the road from me, and I've heard GOOD things about them!!

I am looking at going this route too since they make them specifically designed for 68-72 bumps... My only problem is I need 2 sets since it is a crew cab.. $$$ $$$

[Hawkrod]

You can use the power windows from an 80-96 pretty easily. I have done several. The most important thing is to get the mount pattern right. Also note that the roller is a different size but can be either trimmed or replaced. Here are some pics from one that I did (it is a dent but they are very similar): http://www.supermotors.net/registry/1812/9636. Hawkrod

[67MercM100]

You can use the power windows from an 80-96 pretty easily.

Ever done a '67? You'd think things would work about the same. But then the '67s DO have subtle differences.

I'd like to try to do a set-up that allows use of the switches which use the stock crank handles (from AutoLoc). Looks like the 80-96 set-up wouldn't allow for that.

[elgemcdlf]

You can use the power windows from an 80-96 pretty easily. I have done several. The most important thing is to get the mount pattern right. Also note that the roller is a different size but can be either trimmed or replaced. Here are some pics from one that I did (it is a dent but they are very similar): http://www.supermotors.net/registry/1812/9636. Hawkrod

Actually the dent and bump doors are quite different inside. The dents use a hinge that mounts to the end of the door. Bumps have hinges that extend into the door with a large inside portion used for hinge mounting. This type of mounting is also part of what makes single piece door glass a challenge. Bumps also have a recessed area behind the panel that needs removed to clear the regulator as it sweeps. I have considered altering my door mounts to use the dent hinges making pwr window and one piece windows a much easier install. They now make a glass kit and pwr windows is not that big of a deal. Just takes some time to get it working correctly.