Removing A/C from junkyard truck

[91Bear]

I found a bump with air conditioning in a junkyard and I would like to pull the underdash unit and the compressor to possibly install in my completely original but very hot in the Texas summertime 1969 truck. What do I need to watch for/be careful with when removing the A/C?

I doubt there is any freon left in this old truck but do I need to remove it? Can I get burned by it?

[hazelnut]

When i pulled the A/C unit from mine i had to remove the floor shifter, drain tube, glove box, control cables and the seal on the firewall for the lines. Only 4 bolts hold the unit in. I removed the 2 on the fire wall, Blocked up the unit and pulled the 2 under the dash. Pull the blocking and the unit will slide down (with help) the firewall to the floorboard. Helps to have someone guide the hoses through as the unit comes out, Plus always good to have some extra eyes to see what the unit wants to hang up on the way out. My unit didn't have any freon in it.

[91Bear]

What about the compressor? Do you need special tools to disconnect the hoses?

[fireguywtc]

What hazelnut said but don't forget all of the condenser setup on the front of the truck. Sometimes the condenser is toast but they are expensive to buy new so I would check. If the hoses are junk just cut them because you will likely need to replace them anyways. Hoses are expensive but its best to go with new in my opinion. They don't need any special tools to take them off, just wrenches but they are likely very tight.

[ToughOldFord]

Freon is very dangerous to breath, so if you crack one of those hoses and you hear pressure escaping just walk away from it for a bit until it has time to evacuate.

[hazelnut]

Forgot to say anything about the heater core. The tubes will try to hang on everything it can on the way out, Firewall insulation, carpet, If it can hang on it you can bet it will.
I tryed to buy a replacement heater core when i had the unit out but had no luck finding one anywhere. But you can have the old one recored.

[basshound71]

The refrigerant can burn you if it comes out as a liquid. As they said earlier,dont breath it as it displaces oxygen.

[Mach428]

I did the same removal, rebuild and install in my 69. I wouldn't cut any hoses if it were me. The high pressure line (one with the site glass) will probably outlast us all. Even if the hoses are bad, you may need the fittings on the end.

The two lines that connect to the inside evaporator terminate under the hood and should be easy to remove in one piece.

Don't forget to get all of the screws, clips, fasteners, and controls as well.

If you do install this unit into a truck that did not come with AC, you should replace the 15amp heater fuse with a circuit breaker.

have fun!

[flyboy2610]

If this is a factory unit, make sure you draw really good diagrams of how all the linkages hook up, and take plenty of pics before disconnecting anything. Make sure you get the in-dash control unit, as it is different from non-AC trucks. You may also want to grab the glove box liner, as yours will no longer fit.

[fireguywtc]

FWIW and I am not trying to influence anyone, but if I had to do it again I would go with an aftermarket unit. This includes my 70 that came with a factory unit already installed. The reason is that it cost me almost as much to restore my factory AC system as it does to buy a new aftermarket kit (combines heat/AC style).

Here was a run down of the cost of restoring my system:

New, York style compressor with clutch- $250
R&R the HVAC box, heater core, and evaporator (tested)- $50
New drier- $50
New condenser- $75
New hoses, seals, fittings, vacumed and charged with R-134a which was performed at an AC shop- $600

If you had the time and patients, you could possibly replace all of the seals and hoses your self. I think you would have to be really lucky to be able to reuse all of the old hoses. That could reduce your cost a bit but might be risky for future failure. If you convert to R-134a you also need the adaptors for the hose fittings to charge the system. If you stay R-12 it will cost quite a bit to recharge the system. Also, my $75 condenser was a generic one I bought off my local radiator guy and I had to adapt it to my truck. A stock style condenser is about $225 new from LMC.

Either way you look at it, restoring a stock AC system is expensive and almost the same as buying a new aftermarket style AC system. The advantage of the aftermarket system is it is all new and ready to go, and liklely more efficient. The disadvantage is that it does not keep the truck original.

[hazelnut]

FWIW and I am not trying to influence anyone, but if I had to do it again I would go with an aftermarket unit. This includes my 70 that came with a factory unit already installed. The reason is that it cost me almost as much to restore my factory AC system as it does to buy a new aftermarket kit (combines heat/AC style).

Here was a run down of the cost of restoring my system:

New, York style compressor with clutch- $250
R&R the HVAC box, heater core, and evaporator (tested)- $50
New drier- $50
New condenser- $75
New hoses, seals, fittings, vacumed and charged with R-134a which was performed at an AC shop- $600

If you had the time and patients, you could possibly replace all of the seals and hoses your self. I think you would have to be really lucky to be able to reuse all of the old hoses. That could reduce your cost a bit but might be risky for future failure. If you convert to R-134a you also need the adaptors for the hose fittings to charge the system. If you stay R-12 it will cost quite a bit to recharge the system. Also, my $75 condenser was a generic one I bought off my local radiator guy and I had to adapt it to my truck. A stock style condenser is about $225 new from LMC.

Either way you look at it, restoring a stock AC system is expensive and almost the same as buying a new aftermarket style AC system. The advantage of the aftermarket system is it is all new and ready to go, and liklely more efficient. The disadvantage is that it does not keep the truck original.

Being a old A/C unit how dose the unit cool your truck. Will it get cold enuff that you have to turn it down because it get to cold inside or just keep it comfortable ?

[fireguywtc]

Right now it just keeps my cab more comfortable on a hot day. When it's really hot it has a hard time keep it cool. And I also deleted the fresh air intake to the HVAC box so it reciculates all the time. However, my unit currently needs the expansion valve replaced because the original one (the one installed) sticks. I have a new expansion valve and just need to take the time to install it.

I also have been taking steps to make the cab better for keep the AC in. I recently put insulation under the floor mat and installed all new window seals in the doors. The old ones were horrible and the cab is sealed so much better now. I also need to tint the windows before it gets hot again.

I am hoping that when I get the AC fixed and all that stuff done to the truck it will keep the truck more cool. I will report back the results when that time comes if anyone wants.

[91Bear]

Hmmm...the one I found is for sale for $100 and I would need to drive about 3 hrs round trip to get it. Not worth it?

[fireguywtc]

Of course it depends on condition but really it depends on what you want to do. I agree with you that AC is pretty much mandatory in Texas. If you want to keep your truck as original as possible using a factory AC system I would say go for it. They do work. But if you are willing to aftermarket I think for the price it is a better option. I can not say first hand how much better they work then an orignial style system other then what I have heard. I will be able to give a better opinion when I install one in my 67. WIth an aftermarket one you are getting all new stuff for about the same price.

[sargentrs]

How about the best of both worlds? An aftermarket unit that looks like it's original. http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/air-co ... em-293.php