RE: the wire you're not supposed to cut!

[Jen71rangerxlt390]

So I am in the process of patching up and replacing some burnt wires from my ignition harness under the dash in my 71 F100. My dilemma is the resistance wire in my ignition, I believe is also supposed to be attached a red wire with a green stripe (almost looks gold on my truck). But I need to cut that wire and put a new connection on it to make sure that wire is good and to connect it to the red wire with the green stripe because it has come completely detached and has also been horribly spliced into a couple of times. I know in the past somebody jumped my ignition with jumper splices on the black and the yellow wires, I had to patch those up but they arched the rest of my ignition wiring harness and I have to replace the ends where there was a little bit of melting on The wires. What is anyone's opinion about cutting that pink resistance wire in order to put a new connection end on it for my ignition plug? They are blades, and I'm pretty far into an extensive rewiring job. I've already completed the exterior lights and the engine compartment wiring harnesses and gadge harness. any input would be greatly valued. thank you for reading and your responses

[cep62]

when my resistor wires go bad I put a universal ceramic ballast resistor in it's place.
If you're not using points you may not even need a resistor.

[Jen71rangerxlt390]

So I have not traced the pink resistor wire in my harness from my ignition I don't know where it goes to. I am still using points. And my truck hasn't ran in 4 or 5 years and I think it's because the red wire with the green stripe that was attached to the pink resistance wire was almost completely detached and somehow arching the other wires in the harness. any thoughts on this? I'm just trying to put it back together right so I don't have to deal with it again. I'm finishing buttoning up everything else underneath my dash so I can get it running.

[Fraser]

A little background, you may already know this, but for those who don't; A 12 volt system uses essentially a 6 volt coil, it starts on 12, but the resistance wire reduces that to 6-8 volts in run. With the ignition in run, you should have lower voltage at the coil, in start, the power comes from the I terminal of the starter solenoid, so it is a full 12 volts.
I would check the voltage at the coil, in run, if you have none, the wire is bad, a replacement resister wire should be available at most parts stores or on line, Ceps suggestion of a ballast resistor will also work, Ford used them in the early sixties, but switched to a wire mid decade for cost savings, but either will work.