Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
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- jor
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Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
390 with T-18
I'm replacing the clutch on my 67. I have the clutch and pressure plate in and am trying to attach the release lever to the bell housing. I'm looking at the lever and at the clip and I can't see how this thing attaches. In the spirit of full disclosure, I put this thing together a few years ago but I don't remember having an issue with this thing. Anyhow, am I missing a part or what? Here's a photo of the attachment point with the two little tits (arrows) and a couple of the lever and clip. Thanks. I also need to replace the rubber boot that the bracket passes through. I'm hoping they're still available.
jor
I'm replacing the clutch on my 67. I have the clutch and pressure plate in and am trying to attach the release lever to the bell housing. I'm looking at the lever and at the clip and I can't see how this thing attaches. In the spirit of full disclosure, I put this thing together a few years ago but I don't remember having an issue with this thing. Anyhow, am I missing a part or what? Here's a photo of the attachment point with the two little tits (arrows) and a couple of the lever and clip. Thanks. I also need to replace the rubber boot that the bracket passes through. I'm hoping they're still available.
jor
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- heep70
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
I am guessing you would have better luck attaching it with the bell off the engine.
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
- jor
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Arrrggghhh... man, I hope I don't have to do that. That will mean the header and starter will have to go, probably. This was supposed to be a two day in and out job! hahahaha... I've had this truck for years and I'm giving it to my son so I thought I'd make sure it was squared away first. Anyhow, I can get my hand up in there and I can see the bracket so I'm thinking I should be able to attach the thing. Thanks.I am guessing you would have better luck attaching it with the bell off the engine.
jor
- heep70
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Wait for other replies before you do so. That is just the way it looks to me as far as getting it back on there. My fork is different.
Greg
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
1971 F250 "Highboy". SOLD to "Highboy_Firefighter_71"
2000 Subaru Outback limited.
2000 F250 4X4 PSD SuperDuty Crew.
2010 Polaris 800RMK Dragon 155"
2013 Polaris Pro 800 RMK 163"
1980 Built Toyota "Trail Rig".
My last 1971 "Highboy" pics
- robroy
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Hi Jor!
Your clutch fork looks rather different from my 1972 fork. Is the wire that's supposed to retain it to the pivot bracket (the one that's held to the bell housing with two rivets) a factory arrangement?
Here's a photo of how mine went together:
A photo of the engine-facing side of my fork:
And a photo of the rear of the fork. This one shows part of the arrangement on my fork that looks so different from the wire/clip on yours.
Jor, do you already have the throwout bearing on your transmission main drive gear shaft?
I have better photos that show this area that I'll post shortly; these are just the ones that were already on the Web.
Robroy
Your clutch fork looks rather different from my 1972 fork. Is the wire that's supposed to retain it to the pivot bracket (the one that's held to the bell housing with two rivets) a factory arrangement?
Here's a photo of how mine went together:
A photo of the engine-facing side of my fork:
And a photo of the rear of the fork. This one shows part of the arrangement on my fork that looks so different from the wire/clip on yours.
Jor, do you already have the throwout bearing on your transmission main drive gear shaft?
I have better photos that show this area that I'll post shortly; these are just the ones that were already on the Web.
Robroy
- robroy
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Here are a few more photos that show that bracket on my bell housing. I'm not sure if you'll be able to visually extrapolate anything from them. After taking a closer look at your photos, it looks like this may be a part that changed between 1967 and 1972.
Note that I replaced the factory rivets with bolts (which is why they look funny):
And you know, the rubber boot is definitely still available. The one I ordered is actually a NOS Ford part. I think I got that from NPD, but I could double check for you if you're interested to know. I just bought it recently too.
Robroy
Note that I replaced the factory rivets with bolts (which is why they look funny):
And you know, the rubber boot is definitely still available. The one I ordered is actually a NOS Ford part. I think I got that from NPD, but I could double check for you if you're interested to know. I just bought it recently too.
Robroy
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Yeah, Robroy, his is a different setup from ours.robroy wrote: Your clutch fork looks rather different from my 1972 fork.
Is the wire that's supposed to retain it to the pivot bracket
(the one that's held to the bell housing with two rivets) a
factory arrangement?
I've been in a thread like this one before.
The spring wire is easy to get, new. :)
I'd be interesting to hear if anyone's replaced the arm and spring
on the older setup like Jor's, without taking it all apart. :)
Alvin in AZ
- jor
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Hey, Robroy, thanks for the great photos. I can see that your lever has a positive attachment to the bell housing at the fulcrum point. That is what I've been trying to figure out on mine; it seems to just kinda, sorta, hopefully attach. I ordered the boot and clip. When they arrive, I'll see if I can figure out if this is the right setup or not. I've decided to take the damn bell out anyhow so this will give me a chance to get it right. Might even pick up another setup at the wrecking yard. This project has really balooned. Originally, I was just going to check everything out before giving this truck to one of my kids. On the other hand, it remains true to my rule of eight-four, which states that a typical project for me takes eight times as long and costs four times as much as my original estimate.
jor
jor
- robroy
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Hey Jor, you're welcome! Hopefully somebody else will post photos of a 1967 setup so you can compare yours to one that's known to work properly (of the exact same style).
Robroy
Robroy
- wickedinhere
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
I had the same questions the spring is called an anti rattle spring, it and the rubber boot help hold it in there. Here are some pics of mine.
This pick is looking in where the boot goes.
This is the other side.
I never could get a clear answer on how its suppose to go but this is the only way i could see that it could go.
Its in there good and tight and mine works perfect.
This pick is looking in where the boot goes.
This is the other side.
I never could get a clear answer on how its suppose to go but this is the only way i could see that it could go.
Its in there good and tight and mine works perfect.
You can pay more but you cant buy better.
- jor
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Wicked, those are just the photos I need. It is really a crummy setup and I can see why Ford changed in later years. I bit the bullet and removed the bell housing today. I don't think I ever could have gotten that damn lever on right without doing so. What a pain this job has become. I had to cut my exhaust to get it out of the way. Thanks again.
jor
jor
- wickedinhere
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Your welcome
You can pay more but you cant buy better.
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Brand new 72?, how long ago was that??
94 Ford F-150 super cab
300-6 eod auto,changing to NP-435
300-6 eod auto,changing to NP-435
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- Blue Oval Fan
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Mid 1973. :)Skifu wrote: Brand new 72?, how long ago was that??
~36 years
It was Wimbledon white, no chrome with a cross bed tool box,
and except for the bumps it looked just like my personal
pickup I special ordered in late '74. :)
Alvin in AZ
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Re: Attaching Clutch Release Lever to Bell Housing
Ive been through this same thing before,on a 69 f-100,swb,351 windsor 3 speed on the column,and it was a bad ass ride,it belonged to my cousin,and all I will say is it was legendary in that part of Fl,it had a locker installed in the factory Ford 9 incher rear end,and for a 2wd,it would pull like a sombitch,it was BAD,If you knew how to" rock" it in the mud,as long as it would move,it would go through some terrible crap,I mean places a billy goat would side step,it had 10 inch wide chrome rims on the back,and high dollar mudder tires,with some serious tread on them,I loved that truck,anyway,back to business,on that clutch fork,tie it on with a piece of string,just long enough to hold it in place,untill you get it installed,and then cut the string loose,and pull it out,thats what I did and it worked just fine,we had to change out the clutch,P-plate,and TO.bearing on side of the road,in a busy traffic area,It was FUN,we also had 2 girls with us,coming back from an 3 day trip to the beach,he got it into some very thick sand,and it came out of it,but it took its toll on the clutch,it was smoked,anyway,the motor in this Ford was a 351 windsor,set up for a marine application,however,the dude backed out of the deal,so I got the motor,and we installed it in his F-100,it had a marine(boat type) of cam in it,and it would wind out tighter than anything Id ever seen up untill then,Im telling you,I had it up to 90 mph in 2nd gear!and it sounded tough! it had big tube headers,and dual pipes coming out behind the back tires,when you would let off the gas pedal,it would back down,and pop off like firecrackers it sounded so tough!
anyway,how did you get that bell housing so clean? or is it brand new? Im retro fitting a T-18 into a 96 F-150-and Ive de.greased it,and pressure washed it,but it still dont look as clean as yours,I wish I had that 351,but Im gonna keep my 300-6,its running so good,I may swap in a v-8 later on,after I get the new tranny installed,No one will believe me,but my T-18 came out of a 90 F-150,lwb-2wd,that was crashed in the front end,and the tranny was in like new condition,not a speck of grease on it,the aluminum bell housing was a bit dirty,but not to bad,I got LUCKY!!the inside of this tranny was super nice,it still looks brand new,very low miles on it,because of the damaged front end of the donor vehicle. OK,see you guys later,this is SKEEFOO sighning off!!!
anyway,how did you get that bell housing so clean? or is it brand new? Im retro fitting a T-18 into a 96 F-150-and Ive de.greased it,and pressure washed it,but it still dont look as clean as yours,I wish I had that 351,but Im gonna keep my 300-6,its running so good,I may swap in a v-8 later on,after I get the new tranny installed,No one will believe me,but my T-18 came out of a 90 F-150,lwb-2wd,that was crashed in the front end,and the tranny was in like new condition,not a speck of grease on it,the aluminum bell housing was a bit dirty,but not to bad,I got LUCKY!!the inside of this tranny was super nice,it still looks brand new,very low miles on it,because of the damaged front end of the donor vehicle. OK,see you guys later,this is SKEEFOO sighning off!!!
94 Ford F-150 super cab
300-6 eod auto,changing to NP-435
300-6 eod auto,changing to NP-435