68 F-100 SWB 2wd 351w Auto - projects

[JIMO2]

May be a 1967 the only 68 I see are the reflectors on the hood??

You can see my intro at: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =1&t=75897
But the project starts here.....

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Finally got around to working on the truck and just drove it for the first time. Oil leaks everywhere!! Someone forgot to remove the old rubber u shaped seals when replacing the oil pan gasket LOL, so the front and back squished out when he tightened it up. While at it, off with the timing cover to replace that seal....wow the timing chain is just starting to grove the cover it is so loose. Time to change that!
Waiting on parts for the engine.....Today seemed like a nice day to strip down the '79 F-150 front clip I picked up a month ago. After the first drive, not being able to stop the truck, I decided to get moving on the power disc brake conversion. (The guy I bought the clip from cut it off at the front cab mounts and sold me every thing including the tie rods, power steering box, power booster, brake pedal, bracket, lines, prop valve and master cyl. It cost $425, but the parts look pretty clean). So, because the front clip came apart easily, I then, also today, I moved on to the '68 and got every thing out from under the front end of that to get ready for the swap of the components. It was a good day. Before installing the I-beams, I need to replace the pivot bushings. Any one have advise on the tricks needed for that??

[JIMO2]

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Power disc brake conversion done.
- new pivot bushings went in ok
- used this new copper alloy brake line...it is nice to work with and bends easily.
- 67 style brake pedal support was in my truck... I used the cantilever style booster with the 77 style pedal (has a D7 part # on it), all from a 79 f-150 and just had to drill a new hole in the pedal support for the pedal pivot the required 5" from the fire wall, which I measured from the '79 pedal bracket. The 77 pedal then fit right in with no other mods. (I like the 77 pedal in lieu of the 67 pedal because it sits low, so you don't have to bring you knee to your chest each time you want to brake). I used the push rod brake light switch from the 67 set-up.
- power steering box required the careful notching of the motor mount. I was careful to remove only the material necessary. It should not affect the integrity of the mount.
She drives nicely.

A TECH NOTE: 1971 F-100 there is no drilling needed to put these parts in as the pedal support is different from the 1967 style. A friend of mine did it and he even used his original 71 pedal....it all lined up!

[rkeeme]

Is there anyway to get some pics of the pedal assembly? I am working on a 67 f100 for a friend and he mentioned brake pedal hurting his chest (from the knees hitting it).

[JIMO2]

This brake pedal is a D7 part# and works with the brake booster, both out of a 1979 f-150 (matched set). The pedal bracket from the 79 obviously would not fit my 67, so I drilled the 67 pedal bracket to match the exact pivot point the 79 bracket had (referenced to the bolt holes for the firewall). The new brake pedal sits the same height as the gas pedal. I did not try to use the 67 brake pedal with the 79 booster set-up, I am not sure how it would have lined up. I wanted to keep it as matched as I could. Here are the pics of mine. I hope this helps.

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[JWW]

Thanks for posting the pictures.

[JIMO2]

My pleasure

[JIMO2]

So, when I was under the dash with the brake pedal thing, I had noticed some charred wiring. A few things were not working, so I took note. A few drives for fun then some digging in.......woha

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Everyone is beyond this on this forum but...Lesson for the rest out there: Don't do this to someone else....NO gum wrapper foil AND NO threaded rod for fuse replacements.......LOL

Lots of cutting, soldering, sectioning, tracing and shrink tube.

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Later found was the source of the original short...it was because the interior lamp was removed and the little brass contact slid out enough and touched the side of the socket..***SHORT***
I put a bulb in and fixed the pigtail that burned off. The wire thru the roof and down the "A" pillar must have been slightly beefier and handled the short with out charring.

[JIMO2]

I have some time this week, will probably get the window rubbers in. I could not take the rattling anymore, this past fall. You got to have a "tight" feeling when you close a door on a Ford, know what I mean? The truck has been put away for the winter under the house, which is good because the low temp outside is supposed to be in the negatives for the next day or two. The doors are stripped down as of now and just have to chip out the rest of the old rubber.

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[JIMO2]

Well, over the winter I installed the door felts and wow what a difference. Doors sound great when I close them. Also the first spring drive no annoying rattles either.
I did a little reverse twist on the front bumper as well. End result much better. I got it as close as I could as I did not want to damage the sheet metal. There was a lot of spring back.

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Next, I am thinking of popping the trans (c-6) out to get a "freshen up" done on it. It leaks and has "morning sickness"...that is, there is a delay when going in to drive. Other than that it works fine. I just think do it now and get ready for the next upgrade. I have my sights set on a 1994 351w from a Bronco. I am on the fence on where I stand on going EFI or carb with the swap. I currently have a 1980 351w in it that runs ok but is a bit tired.

[JIMO2]

A random pic from last summer. (note twist in bumper....now almost gone).

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[IN2FORD]

Nice ride!! Read your post on my thread. EFI is just going to make it more drive-able. You have all the basics down as to what you need. I grabbed a distributor out of a 90 F250 that had a 351w at pull a part. It has the TFI module on the distributor. I think the style change in 92 is when the tfi module on the distributor went away. Anyways keep pushing forward!!

Barry

[SSW]

I also agree with the EFI. I may be able to help with some questions. I am using a 91 F150 302 with the E4OD. Not complete yet. But have all the wiring figured out. I used most everything from the donor.

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[JIMO2]

Nice ride!! Read your post on my thread. EFI is just going to make it more drive-able. You have all the basics down as to what you need. I grabbed a distributor out of a 90 F250 that had a 351w at pull a part. It has the TFI module on the distributor. I think the style change in 92 is when the tfi module on the distributor went away. Anyways keep pushing forward!!

Barry

Thanks Barry, It will not be until next year on the swap (I still have to talk my uncle out of the 351 from his Bronco....LOL) I guess in the meantime, I will see if I can come across a dist.
Good luck on yours,
Jim

[JIMO2]

I also agree with the EFI. I may be able to help with some questions. I am using a 91 F150 302 with the E4OD. Not complete yet. But have all the wiring figured out. I used most everything from the donor.

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Hi SSW and thanks for the input. As far as the EFI, it was just how much extra effort I would have to put into the swap that has me on the fence. I had mentioned in IN2FORD'S thread that I have alot of the needed stuff already from a 90 mustang; wiring, pcm and such to go EFI and I know it would be better, but sometimes I like simple.
Yours is looking great! It looks as if you still have the 9 inch rear in your build in lieu of the 8.8 with speed sensor from the 91 f150. So with that said, do you have a plan for the needed speed sensor that the E4OD needs to operate??
Thanks,
Jim

[SSW]

On the 91 E4OD has a speedometer cable, the VSS is there. I lucked out with 91, I think it is the only year that had the speedometer gear on the output shaft. I also got a speedometer cable from Tom's bronco parts that works with the VSS & old style speedometer. the sensor in the 91 8.8 rear end was wired to the antilock brakes. I do have a 91 factory wiring diagram to confirm.