I no longer have a needfor my choke cable. However I thought perhaps I could change its use to a remote hood release so the knob would still serve a purpose. In addition it would mean my hood is "locked" to keep out sticky fingers right?
Anyone ever do this or have suggestions. I have no idea where to start on this but retiring soon and will have time to figure it out if need be.
remote hood release
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remote hood release
1968 F100 SWB Flareside, 240-6, 3 speed, 3.70 rear, bone stock and rust free.
- sargentrs
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Re: remote hood release
This has been discussed many times over many years and I have yet to see anyone come up with anything. Be sure and let us know if you come up with one that works!
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
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Re: remote hood release
That they chose to mount the latch to the hood where you hit it with your head makes it difficult to retrofit something newer in place.
'70 F-350 CS Cummins 6BT 10klb truck 64k mile Bahama Blue
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
Contact me for CNC Dome Lamp Bezels and Ash Tray pulls.
- sargentrs
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Re: remote hood release
Got me to thinking! However, I think electric would be easier and more secure. 2 brackets, 1 one on the hood, 1 on the valance. Slots in each bracket that line up when closed. Above the slot is the locking hole. Make a cam claw with a pin at the top angled at the apex of the cam. Mount an electric window motor, the smaller the better, and mount the cam instead of the gear. Position the brackets so that the bottom of the slots overlap when the hood is down, install a safety latch if you don't already have one. Position the motor so that the cam engages the slots and as it turns, it pulls the hood down. Once it gets close to the bottom, the pin engages the locking hole through both brackets. Maybe install a spring bumper to keep it under tension. Might adapt a power window regulator instead of the cam? I can see it in my mind!
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
- basketcase0302
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Re: remote hood release
Had a hood fly open on my step-dad's 67' Galaxie wagon once, (while crossing the Tennessee River where the bridge is 100 feet above the water)!
"Pucker factor" gets real when your going 45 MPH 100 feet above the water and you can't see what's in front of you LOL!
I actually had the rare lockable 78'/79' hood latch that I was going to do the change with but once looking real closely at the engineering required on the radiator support and the hood as well all the time / labor / and mig welding made it not feasible for me.
But then what would we all hit hour heads on LOL?!
"Pucker factor" gets real when your going 45 MPH 100 feet above the water and you can't see what's in front of you LOL!
I actually had the rare lockable 78'/79' hood latch that I was going to do the change with but once looking real closely at the engineering required on the radiator support and the hood as well all the time / labor / and mig welding made it not feasible for me.
But then what would we all hit hour heads on LOL?!
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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Re: remote hood release
An idea that I had that would be a lot of work that I may try on one of my trucks is to use the 73 and up core support and hood. They both work with some work as has been discussed in other threads on fordification, although it doesn't look anywhere near factory. That way you would be able to use the 73 up hood latch as it is intended with little modification to that aspect of the truck. Not ideal but a viable option if you want it bad enough.
1968 f100 Ranger
1972 f100 Sport Custom
1972 f250 4x4 conversion
1972 f100 Sport Custom
1972 f250 4x4 conversion
- basketcase0302
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Re: remote hood release
The extensive amount of work like you mentioned is probably why no one has done this yet. As the dent core support requires some re-drilling and fitment and the hood hinge brackets require additional drilling and fitment just to start with."trickf100"An idea that I had that would be a lot of work that I may try on one of my trucks is to use the 73 and up core support and hood. They both work with some work as has been discussed in other threads on fordification, although it doesn't look anywhere near factory. That way you would be able to use the 73 up hood latch as it is intended with little modification to that aspect of the truck. Not ideal but a viable option if you want it bad enough.
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
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Re: remote hood release
A friend of mine uses a chain with a padlock on his 69 mustang. He has to open the hood a little to get at it but it works. Simple and cheap. Might work on a bump too.